homemade jointer

[soli]

Here is what I'm using to joint. The edge picture shows the curve against the sheet of typing paper. The end opposite the tang is beveled so as not to catch. Critique and suggestions for improvements would be most welcome.

[Jim_Thode]

Soli,
I appreciate your creativity and I like the idea of using a longer curved file for jointing. I think it is better then a short straight file and in some cases maybe better then a long (Gibbs) jointer.

The two main concerns I have with your design is that with just one set of screws offset to one end to hold the file curve, that the curve is not symmetrical and not a fixed radius. If you can get a fixed radius to match the saw radius I think would be an improvement.

The other concern is the lack of a guide to hold the file perpendicular to the saw. Maybe with a little more woodwork, something could be added to hold the file square to the saw.

That said, it is definitely better then a bare file and with care could be useful.

Jim

[PATCsawyer]

Rip a slot in a hardwood board wider than a file shim, your curvature with a piece of scrap steel, and adjust curvature with screws on either end of the jointer. The washers hold the board away from the saw blade so the file runs flat over the teeth.

[soli]

Soli,
I appreciate your creativity and I like the idea of using a longer curved file for jointing. I think it is better then a short straight file and in some cases maybe better then a long (Gibbs) jointer.

The two main concerns I have with your design is that with just one set of screws offset to one end to hold the file curve, that the curve is not symmetrical and not a fixed radius. If you can get a fixed radius to match the saw radius I think would be an improvement.

The other concern is the lack of a guide to hold the file perpendicular to the saw. Maybe with a little more woodwork, something could be added to hold the file square to the saw.

That said, it is definitely better then a bare file and with care could be useful.

Jim

Thanks for the feedback Jim. I learned a good deal from your videos and photos on your website.

When in use, it is true that I do not pay close attention to the position of the screws along the length of the file. Now that you've drawn my attention to this, maybe I ought to.

I'm not sure if the arc is or is not a circle regardless of the position of the screw along the length of the file. I bet a mechanical engineer could easily answer that question for files that have zero taper. One solution would be to carve a circular arc in the face of the 2x4, then have a couple pair of screws, say 2 pair, that one tightens down. All in all, that would not be as elegant, oops I mean simplistic, as two screws and a wedged shape shim that is placed by hand. But the resulting joining might make it worth it for a saw with a circular arc. Neither of my 1-mans have circular arcs.

The scrap of 2x4 serves as a handle. The 3.5" width makes it fairly easy to feel the perpendicularity, if that's a word, and to keep it stable.

[soli]

Rip a slot in a hardwood board wider than a file shim, your curvature with a piece of scrap steel, and adjust curvature with screws on either end of the jointer. The washers hold the board away from the saw blade so the file runs flat over the teeth.

WOOD jointer1.jpg

Thanks for sharing your design PATCsawyer. Excellent craftsmanship on an elegant design - makes me feel meek with my crude device. If I'm seeing it correctly, it looks like the file's arc is determined by 3 contact points, the small washer in the middle and the two screws at the ends. They could be swapped, one screw in the middle (opposite edge) and a washer on either end. With a small block plane, the face of the wood block could be chamfered along the lower edge of the dado as a relief for the set in the teeth (as an alternative to the fender washers).

[PATCsawyer]

Yes, the small washer allows arc to adjusted by the screws and the fender washers hold it away from any set the teeth may have.

[PackStringSaw]

Neat stuff, folks. I honestly appreciate the effort, but it leaves me wondering why one would do this instead of buying a $10 or $20 jointer (or a $250 one) off eBay or at a sale?

[PATCsawyer]

Just 'cuz. There are a lot of folks who visit this site who don't have the luxury of a USA address. Most Ebay sellers won't ship worldwide. People needing to make their own tools will benefit from the tinkering done by folks on this site.

A couple years ago I made a video on saw filing and posted it on YouTube. YT provides me with a geographical map of where my viewers live. You'd be amazed at how many non-USA hits I get on the video (15,000+ foreign hits and counting)

And then there's all those survivalists who WANT to use the minimal tool for the job just in case they HAVE to make their own.

[trailcrew]

The point is well made that a lot of folks don't realize how easy it is to find perfectly usable vintage tools. However, PATC's points are well made and additionally there's the possibility of coming up with an improvement on a classic design. The dial indicator gauges some folks on this forum have come up with for measuring swage and set arguably work better than the vintage tools available. I'm personally waiting for someone to come up with a modern take on the Anderson #5 saw set.